Honestly, I'm loathe to mess with them as it's still fairly quiet (no real hum or microphonics) Swapping tubes may change the tone as well, but I'm still running what I believe are the original RCA valves.
#FENDER MUSICMASTER BASS AMP MODS DRIVER#
The tonal differences can be subtle after 12:00 on the dial, but they are indeed real and present to my ears.Īgain, I'm not sure what the optimal driver is for this amp, but I can tell you that the stock speaker aint it.
#FENDER MUSICMASTER BASS AMP MODS DRIVERS#
When I changed drivers to something that didn't break up so early, I noticed a HUGE change for the better. There's a ton of treble with the amp to begin with, and even after the bass-cut cap bypass, I really didn't notice a change. Until I swapped speakers, I was ambivalent on the Harvard tone stack mod. Mk1 ear measured Db levels are about the same as the stock 12", but there is a HUGE difference in when the amp starts to break up into compressed/overdriven tone (like 1/2 of the total volume pot sweep). Mine is currently stuffed with an early 80's 8 ohm Eminence 15" rated at 100w RMS tasked for temporary duty until I can find a suitable driver. Unless you're looking for a tiny fart box to play muddy deathmetal at a volume setting anywhere past 0.5 on the dial, change it out for something else - ANYTHING else. The stock 12" Oxford speaker stinks, and will break up even earlier after the bass cap mod. Hell, you need a new driver to take advantage of the amp, period. Make sure that you don't zap yourself.īybassing the bass-cut cap on the input works, but realize that you'll really need a new driver to take full advantage.
There's vintage, and then there's stupidity. Inline inside the chassis for a stock appearance, or you can drill a small (3/8"?) hole for one of the quick change types - there is room on the back. You probably won't have the "death cap" if it's already got a three-prong cord, but adding a fuse/fuse holder and a decent cord is a good idea for safety. Take the info for what you paid for it on the above. Note, I am not an amp tech, but I do own a MusicMaster and have modded it as much as I dare. From what I gather, adding a negative feedback circuit would cause more issues than it's worth (if it's even possible - not a whole lot of info on the circuit because it's fairly uncommon). It has an interstage output transformer handling phasing duty.
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